Entrepreneur Alert: Women Discover Scarves

Nancy Diehl writes:  When International Monetary Fund managing director Christine Lagarde goes to the G8 summit in June, she may well be wearing a scarf – a fashion accessory that she’s become known for, and one that’s been drawing more and more attention.

In fact, the BBC recently identified scarves as a “new power symbol” for women.

True, just as some men choose amusing ties to enliven monochrome suits, many women who work in an atmosphere that requires conservative business apparel will wear scarves to add a fillip of colour and distinction.

The scarf is the most simple form of adornment: a single piece of cloth. For this reason, it’s one of the most versatile clothing accessories, used for centuries across a variety of cultures, for a range of purposes.

Many Muslim women wear headscarves for modesty, while women of a certain age favour scarves with a triangular fold to protect expensive or elaborate coifs.

The British firm Jacqmar produced designs with propaganda-themed slogans. One design mimicked a wall with posters urging citizens to “Lend to Defend” and “Save for Victory”.

But in Western culture, the scarf is most prominently known for its use as a fashion accessory, one that first gained widespread popularity in the 19th century.

The fichu is a typical 18th- and 19th-century style that can be seen as the forerunner of modern scarves. A piece of fabric worn draped on the upper chest and usually knotted in front, it provided modest covering but was also an opportunity to add an especially fine textile – sometimes lace edged or embroidered – to an ensemble.

Lightweight, finely woven silk and cashmere shawls from India were one of the first fashionable scarf styles. Empress Joséphine – the first wife of Napoleon – had an extensive collection (thanks to her husband’s travels), and the style persisted through much of the 19th century, spawning cheaper imitations fabricated in other parts of Europe, notably France and Paisley, Scotland.

Certain labels are particularly associated with high style in scarves. Ferragamo, Fendi and Gucci – all originally esteemed leather goods houses – now produce desirable scarves.

But for prestige and polish, Hermès represents the pinnacle of scarf culture.

Limiting the number of designs they offer each season has maintained Hermès’s mystique. The company’s focus on craftsmanship helps justify their reputation and high prices; Hermès takes pride in the impressive number of colours in each design, the hand-printing process and the fineness of their silk, positioning their output as artisanal creations.

In contemporary fashion, scarves continue to serve the same functions as those earlier fine linen fichus and paisley shawls; they denote connoisseurship and sophistication.

French Economy, Industry and Employment minister Christine Lagarde leaves the Elysee Palace on April 21, 2010 following the weekly cabinet meeting in Paris.     AFP PHOTO / LIONEL BONAVENTURE (Photo credit should read LIONEL BONAVENTURE/AFP/Getty Images)

Tsipras: For Whom the Bell Tolls…

Greek Prime Minister Tsipras writes in Le Monde (translation by w-t-w.org):  The Greek people made a courageous decision. They dared to challenge the one-way street from the rigorous austerity of the Memorandum, in order to claim a new agreement. The Greek people paid a high price for these mistakes. In five years, unemployment has soared to 28% (60% for young people), and average income fell by 40%, while Greece, according to Eurostat statistics, has become the State of the Union European (EU) having the highest social inequality index.
Worse, despite the blows that have been brought to the social fabric, the program failed to restore the Greek economy’s competitiveness. Public debt has soared by 124% to 180% of GDP. The Greek economy, despite the great sacrifices of his people, is still trapped in a climate of uncertainty caused by ongoing non attainable goals of the doctrine of the financial equilibrium, which obligate to stay in a vicious circle of austerity and recession.

The main aim of the Greek government in the last four months is to end this vicious circle and to this uncertainty. A mutually beneficial agreement that will set realistic targets in relation to surplus while reintroducing the development agenda and investment – a definitive solution to the Greek case – is now more necessary than ever. Moreover, such an agreement will mark the end of European economic crisis that erupted there seven years, ending the cycle of uncertainty for the euro area.

Today, Europe is able to take decisions that will trigger a strong recovery of the Greek and European economy by ending scenarios of a “Grexit” (Greek exit). These scenarios prevent the long-term stabilization of the European economy and are likely to undermine confidence at any time both citizens and investors in our common currency.
However, some argue that the Greek side does nothing to move in this direction because it comes to negotiations with intransigence and without proposals. Is that the case?

Tsipras continues in this vein and ends with the caution from John Donne as quoted by Ernest Heminway:  For whom the bell tolls, but does not get to: “If a clod be washed away by the sea, Europe is the less.”

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ECB Focus: Jobs and Growth

Jean Pisani Ferry writes:  The topics chosen by the European Central Bank for its annual forum in Sintra, Portugal, at the end of May were not deflation, quantitative easing, or financial stability. They were unemployment, productivity, and pro-growth reforms.  The eurozone lacks both growth momentum and resilience to adverse shocks.

The European Commission now expects growth in the eurozone to reach 1.5% in 2015 and 1.9% in 2016. That certainly looks good in comparison to the near-stagnation of recent years. But, given the combination of massive monetary support, a now-neutral fiscal stance, a steep fall in oil prices, and a depreciated euro, it is the least we could expect, and it will bring per capita GDP back only to its 2008 level. The fact that leaders and pundits are hailing this brighter outlook indicates just how diminished our expectations have become.

Until recently, fiscal austerity and the euro crisis could be blamed for poor economic performance. Not anymore. Although growth may exceed the Commission’s forecast, there are reasons to be concerned about the eurozone’s growth potential.

In order to strengthen that potential, central bankers can only advocate economic reforms; it is governments that are responsible for adopting them. And critics point out that repeated exhortations could prove counterproductive. After all, central banks are quick to rebut monetary-policy suggestions from governments in the name of independence. Why should governments behave differently?  Jobs and Growth in the EU

Jobs

ECB: Jobs and Growth

Nouriel Roubini writes:  A paradox has emerged in the financial markets of the advanced economies since the 2008 global financial crisis. Unconventional monetary policies have created a massive overhang of liquidity. But a series of recent shocks suggests that macro liquidity has become linked with severe market illiquidity.

Policy interest rates are near zero (and sometimes below it) in most advanced economies, and the monetary base (money created by central banks in the form of cash and liquid commercial-bank reserves) has soared – doubling, tripling, and, in the United States, quadrupling relative to the pre-crisis period. This has kept short- and long-term interest rates low (and even negative in some cases, such as Europe and Japan), reduced the volatility of bond markets, and lifted many asset prices (including equities, real estate, and fixed-income private- and public-sector bonds).

And yet investors have reason to be concerned. Their fears started with the “flash crash” of May 2010, when, in a matter of 30 minutes, major US stock indices fell by almost 10%, before recovering rapidly. Then came the “taper tantrum” in the spring of 2013, when US long-term interest rates shot up by 100 basis points after then-Fed Chairman Ben Bernanke hinted at an end to the Fed’s monthly purchases of long-term securities.  Unconventional Monetary Policy

ECB Issues?

Entrepreneur Alert: Organic Farming, the Future?

Ankita Rao writes:  With the introduction of chemicals such as urea, phosphate and pesticides as well as new farming technologies and irrigation systems, this fertile northern Indian state quickly became the seat of the country’s agricultural revolution in the 1970s and 1980s. And farmers like Singh, now a vibrant 69-year-old with a snow white beard, started to see their harvests multiply.

But alongside this burst of prosperity came the harrowing side effects of pouring chemicals into the ground: People’s health deteriorated rapidly, as did water and soil quality, and neither the government nor consumers took action. In the past decade, however, farmers like Singh have taken matters into their own hands and returned to the chemical-free, organic farming practices they used before fertilizers showed up.

Punjab now has approximately 1,500 hectares of certified organic land, and India has emerged as a global leader in organic farming, with 600,000 certified producers. The countries with the second- and third-largest outputs are Uganda and Mexico,
Motivated by growing international demand, the Indian government has encouraged the shift toward organic.

At the beginning of 2013 the government launched a nationwide organic certification program to help India increase its organic exports. During the year, organic exports rose 7.73 percent, and the country produced 1.24 million metric tons of organic produce.

While government interest in organic is largely market driven, for independent farmers in Punjab, the choice is about more than the economics; it’s about grappling with the legacy of the Green Revolution, an agricultural overhaul that began in the 1940s and reached the state more than 50 years ago.

India’s Green Revolution began in 1967, when then–Prime Minister Indira Gandhi took 18,000 tons of hybrid Mexican wheat seeds to Punjab. At the time, starvation plagued much of the country, and the introduction of high-yield seeds and chemical fertilizers resulted in a massive increase in the production of wheat, rice and pulse. India produced 50.8 million tons of food grain in 1950; by 1990, that output jumped to 176.3 million tons, creating a surplus.

But the Green Revolution also brought a host of problems. Rice fields, introduced in Punjab during the overhaul, required heavy irrigation and threatened the state’s water supply. Farmers poured dangerously high levels of government-subsidized phosphate and urea into the soil and water to grow more food.

Punjab’s public health crisis became public knowledge in the 1990s after the discovery of toxic chemicals in the state’s soil and waterways. The region now has the highest cancer rate in the country, and J.S. Thakur, a researcher at the Post Graduate Institute of Medical Education and Research in Chandigahrh, has linked these chemicals to premature aging, skeletal issues and threats to children’s health. Organic farming may be a requirement now.

Healthy and Beautiful like a Georgia O'Keefe

Leveling the Playing Field in Soccer

The U.S. investigation of corruption in soccer’s governing body is moving to a new phase that will bring criminal charges against more people.

How the case develops hinges in part on the fate of nine FIFA officials and five sports marketing executives charged in a racketeering and bribery indictment unsealed May 27, said Richard Weber, chief of the IRS Criminal Investigation Division. The prosecution, which has garnered worldwide attention, came two days before FIFA re-elected its embattled president, Sepp Blatter, 79, for another four-year term

The IRS joined the Federal Bureau of Investigation and U.S. prosecutors in Brooklyn, New York, in building a case alleging sports-marketing executives paid more than $150 million in bribes and kickbacks over 24 years for media and marketing rights to soccer tournaments.

Prosecutors charged Jeffrey Webb and Jack Warner, the current and former presidents of soccer’s governing body for North America, Central America and the Caribbean, or Concacaf. They secured guilty pleas from Charles Blazer, 70, the group’s former general secretary; Jose Hawilla, a Brazilian sports marketing executive, who agreed to forfeit $151 million; and Warner’s two sons, Daryll and Daryan.

Blazer admitted he participated in several bribery schemes involving soccer tournaments, including the World Cups in 1998 and 2010, according to court records. He took a $750,000 cut of a $10 million bribe to support South Africa’s host bid for the 2010 World Cup, according to the criminal charges he admitted.

The IRS entered the case in 2011 when a Los Angeles-based agent, Steven Berryman, began a tax investigation of Blazer, Weber said. Blazer lived in a Trump Tower apartment, flew on private jets, dined at the world’s finest restaurants and hobnobbed with celebrities and world leaders.

His blog, “Travels with Chuck Blazer and his Friends,” featured pictures of Blazer with Hillary Clinton, Nelson Mandela and Prince William, among others. Blazer, now fighting cancer, drew the IRS into FIFA, Weber said. In late 2011, the IRS joined the FBI, which was separately probing FIFA.

Weber said that investigators traced financial records from 33 nations and obtained most of them through treaty requests.

HSBC, Barclays, Standard Chartered are studying transactions to ensure proper procedures took place.

“When you’re talking about a $150 million-plus racketeering and money-laundering case, where you have to trace the bribe and kickback case through multiple accounts and intermediaries and offshore corporations and official ownership, it’s a maze of documents and a significant jigsaw puzzle that has to be put together,” Weber said.

“When you’re dealing with so many countries and so many different players, it is reasonable to spend a few years on a case like this,” he said.

The case is U.S. v. Webb, 15-cr-00252, U.S. District Court, Eastern District of New York (Brooklyn).
FIFA Indictments

New Zealand: Sheep Wander Off; Cows Trot in

Flavia Krause-Jackson and Tracy Withers write: Once upon a time there were 20 sheep to every Kiwi. Now it’s more like seven to every New Zealander. Blame cows, which are now bringing home the bacon.

Huge tracts of flatland once used for sheep farming were converted to dairy pastures as the global price for butter and cheese increased, while demand for sheep meat and wool waned, said Susan Kilsby, a dairy analyst at AgriHQ in Wellington.

“Returns for dairy have been substantially better than for a traditional sheep and beef farming operation,” she said.
The chart below shows how milk-producing cows now contribute far more to New Zealand’s economy than sheep, cows for beef and grains combined.

Sheep Wander Off; Cows Trot InThere were other factors at play, too. The removal of subsidies for sheep farming in the mid-1980s exposed ranchers to market forces, explained Adrienne Egger, an agriculture analyst at Beef and Lamb New Zealand, an organization representing farmers. New irrigation projects also made dairy farming possible for the first time in many parts of the country, AgriHQ’s Kilsby said (cows raised to produce milk are real water guzzlers).

There are 40 million sheep in New Zealand and they’re PISSED OFF!” Fact is, there are far fewer sheep than that.

Lamb prices at the farm-gate rose 85 percent in real terms and mutton prices more than doubled from 25 year ago. China, once a market for low-value cuts, has rapidly emerged as a major importer of Made in New Zealand — moving up from eighth place to second between 2008 and 2013.

“In 2014, China was the largest single country market by volume of lamb,” Eggers said.

Internet: Wave Three

Steve Case writes:  Most people didn’t see the need to be connected; only 3 percent of U.S. households were online when I started, averaging less than one hour of usage per week. It was not clear why people would want to communicate, buy things or gather information through a computer. Online services were pricey, slow, confusing and of limited usefulness.

It was a slow and steady ascension with many near-death experiences. We went through several layoffs and pivots, trying to identify a viable path forward. When we went public in 1992 — after seven years of hard work — we still had less than 200,000 subscribers.
But we stayed with it, and eventually people decided they did want to get connected. By 2000, when we celebrated our 15th birthday, we had 25 million subscribers and nearly 10,000 employees, and about half of the consumer Internet traffic,

But looking back 30 years later, with nostalgia and pride, I am struck by how our journey is about to be repeated by the next generation of entrepreneurs who are tackling some of the world’s most pressing challenges. Indeed, the Internet’s future may very well look a little like its past.

The first wave was the period of building the infrastructure, connections and awareness that ushered in a connected world. During this time, companies such as Cisco, WorldCom, IBM, Microsoft, Netscape and AOL were constructing the on-ramps to the information superhighway.

Iin the second wave, as the market shifted from narrow-band, dial-up phone connections to broadband and the disruption of media and commerce took hold.
That second wave  involved a shift from building the Internet to building on top of the Internet. The focus moved from connecting people to creating new ways for them to access information and one another. The sheer volume of information enabled Google to create a dominant search engine. Apple roared back to life with a vision of seamless integration of hardware, software and services. And the explosion in smartphones enabled the Internet to go mobile, unleashing the app economy.

The third wave of the Internet is about to break. The opportunity is now shifting to integrating it into everyday life, in increasingly seamless and ubiquitous ways. These third-wave companies will take on some of the economy’s largest sectors: health care, education, transportation, energy, financial services, food and government services. These third-wave sectors — all now ripe for disruption — represent more than half of the U.S. economy.

To be successful during the third wave they will need to remember the three P’s:
Perseverance: Overcoming long-term structural changes within regulated sectors won’t happen overnight; entrepreneurs (and investors) will need to be more patient.
Partnerships: Just as partnerships were key in the first Internet wave, they will be key again in the third. Entrepreneurs won’t be able to go it alone in the third wave; they must go together.
Policy: Entrepreneurs will need to understand public policy in a more nuanced way. Last year, 75 percent of venture capital went to just three states: California, Massachusetts and New York. But 75 percent of our Fortune 500 companies are located in the 47 other states, and many of them will play a pivotal role in the third wave, as a new generation of partner-friendly entrepreneurs seeks strategic alliances to gain credibility and accelerate growth.

Internet Wave Three

Oil: The Curse of Uganda?

May Jeng writes:  Roughly 120 miles northwest of the capital, Kampala, the asphalt road gives way to amber-colored soil and Uganda’s oil country begins. This remote region last captured the imagination of the West in the Victorian age, when gentlemen explorers arrived in search of the Nile’s source.

After the discovery of commercially viable oil reserves in 2006, companies including London-based Tullow, the French Total and the Chinese government-run CNOOC began drilling exploratory wells in the Lake Albert region. By 2009, the region’s reserves were estimated at 6.5 billion oil barrels, enough to potentially remake Uganda.

Nearly a decade after the discovery of oil, little of that promised infrastructure has been built. Meanwhile, exploratory drilling has ruined crops and killed off fish, eroding people’s livelihoods. Oil companies have made cash payouts to affected families, but that money has sometimes increased tensions.

Tullow spokesperson Conrad Nkutu said that the company expected to create as many as 150,000 jobs in the country.

The most dramatic consequence of the oil drilling so far has been the forcible eviction of 230 families last August to make way for a petroleum waste-management plant.

Villagers said they were not compensated for their lost property. The residents filed a lawsuit against the strongmen in November 2014, and the case is ongoing.

In Kaseta, a neighboring village of grass-thatched huts, the drilling has damaged the cassava crop and disturbed Lake Albert’s fish stock.

In the past few years, oil companies and the Ugandan government began compensating some of the farmers and fishermen who continue to tend to their cassavas and cast nets for tilapia in the lake.

The Ugandan government has yet to take meaningful steps to regulate the oil industry, according to George Boden, a campaigner with the watchdog group Global Witness. President Yoweri Museveni personally makes most of the decisions about the industry; he is widely believed to consider oil a means of supplying his personal coffers and maintaining power. Many of the production-sharing agreements, which outline how oil revenues will be distributed between the government and the companies, remain a secret. That’s unusual even by regional standards, which tend to favor oil companies.

Conservationists now worry that Murchison has no defense against the advances of oil companies: Already, drilling has commenced on park grounds. They point to neighboring Democratic Republic of Congo, where the government is considering redrawing the boundaries of Virunga National Park in order to accommodate the oil company SOCO International’s proposed exploration.

The discovery of oil in other African nations over the last half-century has largely failed to bring development. Nigeria, Angola and Equatorial Guinea have all been afflicted with the so-called “resource curse.” No longer dependent on taxes to stay solvent, governments became less accountable to their citizens.

Oil Well in Uganda